Colon by Night: Reminiscent of Cebu's Colorful Past

I gripped the camera while my backpack securely hung on my shoulder as Ka Bino led us from alley to alley of what's known to be one of the most perilous areas of Cebu -- downtown, Colon.

Ka Bino, although a very interesting name, is someone I didn't know. If it wasn't for my female friend's adamant request, I would have settled for a random tour guide. Nonetheless, it didn't take me long to understand why. He is famous for being a heritage interpreter and was once Lapu-Lapu City's Tourism Development Consultant.

Still wary about what could go wrong in a place known for robbers and pickpockets, I summoned my courage to keep a straight face and alert senses. My friends paid keen attention while Ka Bino told the stories behind the facade Colon St. is at present. At one point he motioned to direct our stare to a former house of Philippine President Sergio Osmena's wife, Estefania Rosales Chiong Veloso. A turn to the right set our glances to a long street stretch he said used to be occupied by Cinemas and theaters. He recalls how owners come up with various schemes to survive the business against other aggressive competitors. Usually, the tickets with free popcorn sell out. Others got even more ambitious and wanted to be the first air-conditioned movie house, a respite from the cardboard cutouts used then to fan self while watching a movie. Vision Theater is aesthetically a standout in terms of structural design. The building look sturdy, emphasized by tall pillar foundations and artistically decorated at the top with sculptures of naked women by Italian artist, Dante Guidetti, in the 1930’s.

Teatro Junquera (now Oriente Cinema)

Vision Theater

The stories went on, transporting us to the past and painting Colon Street as the then and even until today a very progressive district in Cebu. One building was said to be the go-to place for food lovers as it used to be the pioneer of rooftop restaurants. It was said to contain the largest revolving table which could very well be their version of our Tsim Tsa Tsui's conveyor display (too bad we didn't get near the building to take a photo and I only have my unreliable memory to depend on). A few minutes more of walking took us to a crossroad. At one corner stood an old building that still bore its original name. Although unknown of what it could've been then, we all best assumed it as a photo shop as the name suggested.

 

Finally, Carbon market. I was  always fascinated by the idea of shooting pictures in this part of Cebu at night but I often hesitated for fear that I could lose grip of my camera any time and find myself running after crafty robbers. Needless to say, Ka Bino's carefree demeanor said a lot about his intention to change the notion. I was hoping he'd warn us to be mindful of our belongings, on the contrary, he was mindless about it. He kept talking and taking us to the most crowded of intersections passing by mom-and-pop shops and streetside vendors. One will never run out of interesting things to do in Carbon market. You'll find yourself haggling prices with vegetable vendors, or be captivated by the colorful surroundings of just about anything sold. It's beautiful chaos. Stand at one corner and you'll find yourself dazed and smiling while you smell the stinky but delightful mounds of shrimp paste, ginamos or bagoong, and then mixed with the smell of fish tinola, lansiao, and bakasi while people walk past you from all sides laughing, shouting, and talking just about anything under the moonlight. If you feel emotionally low, go to Carbon Market. It'll keep you awake.

Immediately after our friend paid for a bag of broccoli, Ka Bino took us through a narrow road walled with inexpensive ready-to-wear clothes. Surprisingly, it led us straight into the shopping center that stood right in front of our meeting place. To this day, I am confused like as if I haven't been there a couple of times. The corners, intersections, alleys, and wormholes dizzy me. Mapping our footsteps is beyond my capacity. Perhaps I will leisurely visit the same places again one more time by myself in daylight glory.

I want the same tour! See researched contacts below. Information may have changed.

Galleon San Pedro Tours
Coordinator: Tryscha Bautista
Tel. (032)412-2422 / 0917 716 9830
Email: oldcebuwalks@gmail.com

Ka Bino's website: http://kabino.ph/about/

Wallet Watch:
A few hundreds for the tour and a bag with snacks and drinking water.

The Past Today

From the top of Mt. Samat, we headed back down to Diwa Hi-way through the same trike that took us on the way up. During the descent, we were engaged by the tricycle driver to a conversation with the obvious intent to convince us to hire his cab for the drive back to Bagac at P900. It got us a little confused at first but we eventually decided not to take his offer and will try to wait for a passing jeepney or bus at the highway instead. We paid him P75, crossed the street, and true as hoped, a jeepney stopped, not even 15 minutes since we started waiting. Off we went back to Bagac terminal. From the terminal, we messaged Kuya Willie to take us to their eatery for lunch.We ate as if we skipped 2 meals that day:

  sauted gourd (upo) - P35
  chicken escabeche - P35
  laing - P35
  shrimp sinigang (sour shrimp stew) - P35
  rice - P10
  soda - P15

I especially like Ate Marivic's "chicken escabeche" because from where I came, escabeche is a fish recipe. After eating, we hurried to make it in time for the next tour schedule in Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar which was at 3PM. Once again, Kuya Willie and his wife, our unexpected hosts, were very kind to get us all set for Las Casas. We were taken to meet a quiet and decent kid whose name escaped my memory (my bad .. tsk) and with whom we were chaperoned to the site.

As soon as we arrived, we registered and entered through the huge bricked arc entrance. Before our very eyes stood beautiful Spanish houses laid out like they do in most villas and subdivisions. The 400-hectare area includes a rice field that extends to the mountain, Umagol River, a pool and many more.

We were just in time for the tour so we squeezed ourselves in the crowd of tourists to listen to the pretty guide in Filipiniana dress. She took us from one house to another while giving glimpses of every house's history. The stories behind each house were interesting especially that she details the beginnings until how the houses were turned over to the Acuzars. One story caught everyone's attention about one of the houses, Casa Unisan, formerly owned by a surviving member of the prominent Maxino family in Quezon during the Japanese occupation. It was said that the youngest child was the lone survivor when the family massacre happened in the hands of Japanese tulisan. The yaya's decision to keep the child hidden inconspicuously saved the boy's life. Today, the lower ground of the said house was converted into a restaurant.

Spanish Artifacts

 While house hopping, i noticed that the backyard of one of the houses had what looked like a poultry.
Fat feathery roosters freely roamed the place making it feel like as if you have visited a home in a not very expensive province. It kind of make you forget that day tour costs P600 pesos (prices may have changed). When the tour ended, we maximized what little time we had left to take pictures of the houses without the distraction of loitering tourists. We roamed amazed at the different carvings and sculptures scattered around the vicinity. Of course, we took time to pose for a picture with the sole mode of transportation in the location -- kalesa.

We bore the heat of the day and took our time to enjoy the place. Our last stop was at the famed pool which is open for swimming even for day trippers. When it was already 4PM, we were taken to the terminal by Kuya Willie for our bus ride to Balanga, then to Cabcaben in Marivelles where we leave for our trip to Corregidor, the day after.

The activities we did that day is best described as historical. It was so enlightening and stoking to be transported through time and feel the way our Filipino soldiers felt during the war and at the same day walk along the streets adorned with beautiful Spanish houses which tell a lot about why we are who we are. It's like finding missing pieces of the puzzle and every piece brings an answer to the questions we held on for so long. Travels certainly widen our perspective and understanding.

Here's my breakdown of expenditures on the second half of day 4.

 

Backtrack:

 Befriending Bataan

The Splendor of the Shrine of Valor

See Yahoo pictures of Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar here.

Captivating Cordova

Our company’s community of photographer wannabes headed out to Cordova, a municipality located in the 6th district of Cebu, to give our cameras a run for the so-called street photography. We had no idea what to expect in the place but we went, anyway. From Cebu City, we decided to ride via jeepney to Mandaue, then to Opon, and finally, Cordova. Expectation-wise, I envisioned a place crowded with people and busy streets. Instead, we were greeted by few pedal trike drivers and the smell of grilled pork barbecue at a nearby food shop. At the jeepney drop, we caught sight of a Sweet Corn for Sale sign and headed to the vendor to inquire. Apparently, they just started cooking, so some of us bought bread from Julies’ approximately 6 meters across the street.  As soon as everyone began filling their stomachs, we started walking.

First stop: the Freedom Plaza. When you are a stranger in a new place, you would likely find capitols, museums and plazas the popular landmarks and immediate representations of the community and its history. We decided to take a picture of the Freedom monument which proved witness to the heroism of two Cordova locals, Juan Nuñez and Pablo Biongcog, who lost their lives during the Japanese occupation. We were busy having our pictures taken when we realized that the structure held the word “FREEDOM” with the last letter inverted, showing “FREEDOW”, instead. It must have been removed through time and put back in place the wrong way. Sometimes, we unconsciously present the irony in our messages. In this case, looking around the old capitol (designed with touches of Spanish and American style)  and the inverted “M” makes me skeptic if  the municipality indeed fully freed itself from the bondage of its past under non-Filipino regimes. To note, “CORDOBA”, a merging of 3 balangays (Gab-I, Day-as, and Pilipul), was decreed independent from Opon in 1863.

Right across the plaza, we paused to take a picture of San Roque Parish Church, and side-tripped on what hoped to be our overt attempt to sports photography when we chanced upon tennis players whiling away time at the court beside the church. Further onwards, we caught sight of an old, rustic gasoline station (a non-operating Petron station), kids playing on the streets, men drinking on their pedal trikes under the bright 8AM-sunshine, and a lounging grand dad bonding with his grandchild.

Some other shots were taken at the parola, which stood beside a supposed hotel. Both (parola and hotel) were unfinished structures which have instead become a popular photography subject in the town. Right at the place where both stand, we noticed families and friends on a picnic beside the shore. Even casual acquaintance frolic the beach area for a good time. A stranger approached one of my confreres to ask if we brought a lighter and a foil. Although he didn’t get any from us, he still voluntarily shared information about how he and his friend ended up on the beach with a girl they met from a public disco who insisted to go with them wherever they went. I think we all silently agreed not to meddle with their public lives. Besides they all appear to be enjoying the chance to bask under the sunlight together with other happy locals.

The simplicity of life in Cordova reminds me of my hometown and the genuine, carefree laughs I shared with friends whether by the beach or just along the streets. It is a challenge for me and others who succumb to complications and harassed by city noise to have intentional pauses, just appreciating and reflecting the plain and ordinary things that mean more in life: family, friends, and a quiet, peaceful soul. However, to maintain these treasures, the town has to also be able to live up to the standards of a healthy society where the families are taught and ushered to ways and means of surviving modernization and overcoming crises. I trust that their local government officials are constantly executing well-thought-of plans for the upliftment of the lives of the locals from whose taxes its operating expenses are sourced from. Albeit slow, the town's progress is promising.

Last stop: Lantaw Floating Restaurant. The team headed out to Day-as mangrove plantation known by the Traffic enforcer we met at the junction as the famed "bird sanctuary". Most of the common trike drivers had no knowledge of such reference but will take you there if you tell them to drive you to the "bacau-an" (pronounced bakhawan). When we arrived, there were no birds in sight except for the common ones we see all the time. However, what seemed to be disappointing turned out to be a special treat. The arduous journey brought us to rewarding Lantaw, a floating native restaurant. It was only on its 5th day since it started operating in Day-as, Cordova when we arrived and their delicious food offerings were ravishing treats for the excited palate.

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Further readings:
- Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cordova,_Cebu
- Intercebu.com - http://www.intercebu.com/cpc-portal/casquejo/Poblacion%20Cordova/page2.html


Lantaw Restaurant
Contact Information:
Manager: Allen N. Malubay
Globe #: 09176680464
SUN #: 09332704731
http://www.facebook.com/LantawFloatingNativeRestaurant