Colon by Night: Reminiscent of Cebu's Colorful Past

I gripped the camera while my backpack securely hung on my shoulder as Ka Bino led us from alley to alley of what's known to be one of the most perilous areas of Cebu -- downtown, Colon.

Ka Bino, although a very interesting name, is someone I didn't know. If it wasn't for my female friend's adamant request, I would have settled for a random tour guide. Nonetheless, it didn't take me long to understand why. He is famous for being a heritage interpreter and was once Lapu-Lapu City's Tourism Development Consultant.

Still wary about what could go wrong in a place known for robbers and pickpockets, I summoned my courage to keep a straight face and alert senses. My friends paid keen attention while Ka Bino told the stories behind the facade Colon St. is at present. At one point he motioned to direct our stare to a former house of Philippine President Sergio Osmena's wife, Estefania Rosales Chiong Veloso. A turn to the right set our glances to a long street stretch he said used to be occupied by Cinemas and theaters. He recalls how owners come up with various schemes to survive the business against other aggressive competitors. Usually, the tickets with free popcorn sell out. Others got even more ambitious and wanted to be the first air-conditioned movie house, a respite from the cardboard cutouts used then to fan self while watching a movie. Vision Theater is aesthetically a standout in terms of structural design. The building look sturdy, emphasized by tall pillar foundations and artistically decorated at the top with sculptures of naked women by Italian artist, Dante Guidetti, in the 1930’s.

Teatro Junquera (now Oriente Cinema)

Vision Theater

The stories went on, transporting us to the past and painting Colon Street as the then and even until today a very progressive district in Cebu. One building was said to be the go-to place for food lovers as it used to be the pioneer of rooftop restaurants. It was said to contain the largest revolving table which could very well be their version of our Tsim Tsa Tsui's conveyor display (too bad we didn't get near the building to take a photo and I only have my unreliable memory to depend on). A few minutes more of walking took us to a crossroad. At one corner stood an old building that still bore its original name. Although unknown of what it could've been then, we all best assumed it as a photo shop as the name suggested.

 

Finally, Carbon market. I was  always fascinated by the idea of shooting pictures in this part of Cebu at night but I often hesitated for fear that I could lose grip of my camera any time and find myself running after crafty robbers. Needless to say, Ka Bino's carefree demeanor said a lot about his intention to change the notion. I was hoping he'd warn us to be mindful of our belongings, on the contrary, he was mindless about it. He kept talking and taking us to the most crowded of intersections passing by mom-and-pop shops and streetside vendors. One will never run out of interesting things to do in Carbon market. You'll find yourself haggling prices with vegetable vendors, or be captivated by the colorful surroundings of just about anything sold. It's beautiful chaos. Stand at one corner and you'll find yourself dazed and smiling while you smell the stinky but delightful mounds of shrimp paste, ginamos or bagoong, and then mixed with the smell of fish tinola, lansiao, and bakasi while people walk past you from all sides laughing, shouting, and talking just about anything under the moonlight. If you feel emotionally low, go to Carbon Market. It'll keep you awake.

Immediately after our friend paid for a bag of broccoli, Ka Bino took us through a narrow road walled with inexpensive ready-to-wear clothes. Surprisingly, it led us straight into the shopping center that stood right in front of our meeting place. To this day, I am confused like as if I haven't been there a couple of times. The corners, intersections, alleys, and wormholes dizzy me. Mapping our footsteps is beyond my capacity. Perhaps I will leisurely visit the same places again one more time by myself in daylight glory.

I want the same tour! See researched contacts below. Information may have changed.

Galleon San Pedro Tours
Coordinator: Tryscha Bautista
Tel. (032)412-2422 / 0917 716 9830
Email: oldcebuwalks@gmail.com

Ka Bino's website: http://kabino.ph/about/

Wallet Watch:
A few hundreds for the tour and a bag with snacks and drinking water.

Facing Sea Giants

“Ey, Mike.  I and Khonie are going to Oslob in a few days to watch the Butanding (whale shark).” Karl said on an unexpected meeting at Ayala Terminal one December afternoon of 2011. “They said the rates are cheaper now but will soon raise come early 2012 since the local government of Oslob is planning to make it a tourist spot.”

I said, “I’ll pass.”

Now, more and more news about the whales’ visibility in southern Cebu spread, rapidly reached me, and I insistently told myself, NO.

An invitation came from Bee early January and she said they’ve (she and some acquaintances) plans of going to the place and asked if I and a few friends would come along.

I said, “I’d think about it”.

When she sent a follow up message 2^nd week of January, I finally said, “Okay. Let’s go there next weekend.”

It must’ve been the saturating word of mouth and the infestation of whale pictures in FB that got me hooked in the initially crazy idea of swimming with SHARKS. Movies like Jaws and Anaconda creep through me like mad imaginations of wild animals killing humans. I am a fan of the National Geographic Wild and its programs that shows how packs of lions prey on reindeers but I find it difficult to stomach the thought of humans as lions’ staple food. And because imagination has no boundary, I can’t help but typify lions to whale sharks, at least for the event I was scheduled to embark on. As the day approached, I mustered my courage and conditioned myself mentally, entertaining good thoughts saying, “..this could probably be just a one in a lifetime experience and besides the creature looked harmless in the pictures (like I believed myself .. tsk!).” I decided I should commence this experience with a picture of myself underwater with the shark at the background.”

And so we did. I brought along a few more curious friends, Rhandy and Melvin, Lorie brought a wagon of five, and Bee, the master initiator. I have to be honest, their companionship was comforting. I would like to think they thought of me the same way (naughty grin :D).

We arrived at Oslob just about 3 hours from the city. Although none of us knew exactly where the spot was, let alone Lorie and her troop who started the trip from across Cebu via fast craft, we knew we’ve arrived after seeing the glaring signs and billboards of Butanding right along the road kilometers away from Oslob proper. A crowd of people was our welcome scene and they were just all around the registration area which you wouldn’t even notice existed. Without delay, we enlisted ourselves and as we waited more and more people came in from different places and of different races.

When it was our time to meet and greet the sea giants, we hurried putting on the Php20.00 life vest which looked like a worn out cloth sewn around a styrofoam.  Then, the heart’s drumbeats began. And because we were so preoccupied keeping our balance in the very small canoe we were on, we became more fearful of a capsizing boat than the anticipated shark encounter. I, in fact, had to busy myself scooping volumes of water off the boat. For some reason, I felt that the boat had an orifice that’s keeping the water in but it wasn’t perceived as an impediment. In fact, we shrugged it off our shoulder fast when boatmen and curious lads started shouting in excitement at the sight of the humongous whale sharks. They looked playful as they swam after boatmen who kept feeding them a handful oftiny shrimps. When they started swimming round and about our boat, I knew it was time to swim for a fuller view of the fish.

Using Bee’s water-proof camera, I took pictures of the beautiful whale sharks underwater. I was wowed in amazement of God’s countless masterpieces. I’ve seen beauty on land, but the water creatures were just as beautiful in many different ways. I wanted to touch them but pang of fear and self-restrictions held me. They were so close that I could just reach my arm out and I know my fingers will touch them. Afar, they look small but as they come near, their size grows way too large. And because I wasn’t too far from the water surface, I could hear my friends’ muffled voice saying, “…look behind you.. There’s more.” When I veered, I caught sight of one swimming right straight to me, and as if curious of Bee’s vibrant pink camera, it paused for a while and moved closer. Trembling to keep myself in composure with one arm on the boat’s outrigger ready to pull myself up anytime it lunges, I extended the ready arm with the camera to take a shot. To my disappointment, I must’ve moved too much that I caught only its back side as it started swimming away. There were a few more sightings, but not as close as that moment.

I refused to end the adventure without me taking a snapshot of myself with them somewhere in the background, but their speed was way beyond mine, besides, I only had myself to do it. My friends weren’t anywhere near skillful divers and the boatmen were busy keeping the vessel running, or “afloat” (tsk!).  We headed back home with everyone else content except me who jestingly whined like a crazy child who got a little short-served. All for the want to get a good shot of myself with sharks behind. Haha! Overall, it was a splendid experience and over-the-top start for year 2012 for me.

Before we end this blog, here are some list of do’s and don’ts interested folks can take note of should they decide to live through this adventure:

1. Leave Cebu City from the South Bus Terminal early in the morning to avoid the crowding mob of whale shark sight-seers. The earliest the boatmen bring you to open sea, the lesser sunburn you get.
2. Follow these precautionary instructions as promoted by The Shark Trust and learn through  www.whalesharkproject.org

      - Do not attempt to touch, ride, or chase a Whale Shark   

      - Do not restrict normal movement or behaviour of the Shark

      - Maintain a minimum distance of 3 metres from the Whale Shark

      - Do not undertake flash photography

      - Do not use underwater motorised diver propulsions.

3. Bring lots of sunscreen lotion for skin protection.

Other readings:

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